Tutorial Details
- Software: Luxology Modo 401
- Difficulty: Beginner
- Completion Time: 20-30minutes
- Full source files available to Premium members! Click here to log in, or click here to find out more!
Final Product What You'll Be Creating
Today’s quick-tip tutorial takes a look at how to quickly and easily UV unwrap hard-surface 3D objects using Luxology’s Modo 401. Let’s take a look!
Step 1
Load up the object you want to unwrap. As you can see in the Lists section, this object already has a UV map added. If your model doesn’t have a UV map ready, click New Map at the bottom of the UVs section, give your map a name and click OK to add it in.
Step 2
This is really just a personal preference, however during UVing I prefer to hide both the main grid and the workplane, allowing me to see my model a little more clearly. Hold down Ctrl-1 to bring up the appropriate pie menu as shown, and then drag down and release over Toggle Grid Workplane to hide them. You can repeat this process to bring it back once you’re done!
Step 3
Whilst there are many ways you could go about UVing this object, this quicktip shows the method I use in order to get clean UVs as quickly as possible. Good UVing typically results in either large areas of undistorted, connected UVs, or carefully considered separated sections. This model is going to use the latter, as we can imagine there would be discontinuities in any surface scratches across the corners/bevels in the objects, and as such we really don’t need to keep everything connected. This makes things a lot easier for us!
The first step is to look for the largest flat sections of your model, which in this case are the two outer side panels. In Edge Mode, select the edges that run all the way around these faces as shown. We’re now going to split these off from the rest of the model.
Step 4
At this point you may be thinking “Ok, but what about the rest of the model? It’s UVs are going to be HORRIBLE!” and you know what? You’re absolutely right! However, the UVs for the sections we’re concentrating on now will be perfect, and that’s the key to this method – work methodically through the object, UVing it section by section, concentrating on one section at a time and ignoring the rest until the entire model is complete. So let’s get UVing!
Switch to your UV layout view, and, making sure your correct UV map is highlighted, select Unwrap Tool from the left-hand menu, set the Iterations to around 1000, and then click once in the viewport.
As you can see we now have three different sections in our UV map : 2 sections which look an awful lot like the side panels we were concentrating on, and one section that looks…well…horrible! If the result for the section you’re working on isn’t as smooth as you’d like, feel free to adjust some more of the settings whilst the tool is still active. I’m very happy with my result however, so I’m going to hit Space to drop the tool.
Step 5
This next screenshot shows the next stage of the process. In the UV view, I’ve selected each of the side panels in turn, and rotated them until they lay ‘flat’ in UV space. I’ve then grabbed both of the side panels, and moved them down, outside of the main UV space. We do this because we’re now going to start UVing other sections of the model, and as we want to save as much time as possible we don’t want our UVs to overlap, which would make cleanup at the end just that little bit more difficult.
With your UVs moved, switch to Polygon Mode and then select both of the side panels in the UV view, and click H to hide them. The panels will disappear from both your UV view, AND your 3D view – it’s this last part that’s especially important. As our side panels are now exactly as we want them, we don’t want to re-UV them by mistake! Hiding them takes them completely out of the equation. And we’ll continue this process of selecting a section, UVing, moving and then hiding that section until all parts of the model are UVd, at which point we’ll unhide everything and clean up our map!
Step 6
As you can see, in this next step I’ve now moved onto the next largest section of the model. Once you’ve surrounded that section with edges, you’ll notice that the edges also appear on our horrible looking UV map section on the left – something that definitely needs cleaning up! So once again, select the Unwrap Tool and click once in the UV map view.
Step 7
And there we are, it’s now been fixed! So it’s time to rotate this section, and move it out of the main UV patch, maybe this time to the right so as to avoid overlapping the side panels we moved off previously. And with them moved, it’s time to select those polygons in UV space and hit H one more time to hide our completed section.
Step 8
And after repeating this process for each section of your model, slowly shrinking that horrible mess of UVs, you can hit Shift-H to bring back all of your model and view your completed, if slightly spread out UV map.
Step 9
One of the most important aspects of good UV mapping is ensuring that the different sections of your map all utilise the same amount of UV space – something that’s much easier to understand if I demonstrate! First, import a checkerboard texture into your scene, by switching to the Shader tab, rolling down the Render section and clicking Add Layer > Image Map. The image should automatically display on your object using your newly created UV map for it’s projection, however if it’s not using the right map you can go to the Texture Locator section of the image’s properties, and select your map from the drop down.
Step 10
With that done, switch the 3D section of your viewport to Advanced OpenGL, and up the Horizontal/Vertical Wrap values in the image map’s properties to around 10-15. This shrinks the size of the checkerboard texture on our object, and will allow us to adjust the different sections more easily.
Step 11
Finally, go ahead and scale each section of your UV map until the checkboard texture appears the same size across the entire model – some sections might need to get bigger, whilst others may need to be scaled down. With that done, you can either arrange the sections into the top-right quadrant of UV space manually, or by clicking the Fit UVs button and making sure the Keep Proportion checkbox is selected before clicking OK.
And that’s it! Fast, easy UVing within Modo. If you have any questions, just let me know!
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Dang, Modo’s still around? I downloaded it and gave it a whirl (it was actually my first 3d program) about 7 or so years ago. It didn’t seem like that solid of a modeling program to of survived. I guess projects evolve a lot in 7 years.
Hey Garet,
Modo’s definitely still in the game – in fact version 501 is on the horizon and it’s looking awesome :) I’d really recommend checking out the demo again if you have the chance.
Cheers,
Matt
Thanks Matt!
Great and useful tut as always. Appreciated, indeed.
And as for Garet, it’s not modo that’s been off the radar. But rather you, my friend. ;-) It’s quite the popular program nowadays.
Thanks Ninjaman, I’m glad you liked it! :)
Matt
Thanks a lot for the modo tut. This really helped. Always glad when a modo tut gets published here.
hey matt.. i have a question about an old article but i thought it would be more likely to be seen here:
i was following your Boss Pedal tutorial, and i noticed that you don’t care too much about polygon placement (e.g. when you use the ‘triple’ tool and the mesh looks a little messy), i’d like to know if that is ok, because if it’s i’ve been struggling to make a more clean mesh unnecessarily.. i also noticed that you don’t use subdivision.. i’m kinda new to 3d, so i’ve never seen that.. usually every work i see is made with few polys and then smoothed with subdiv.. is there an explanation for that? why you don’t use it? or is that how modo works (no subdiv)?
heh, i’m sorry for so many questions, but i’m completely lost in this subject..
thanks!
Hi Ricpolisel! If I’m honest, I rarely use the triple tool in my own models as I prefer to spend the time going in and manually splitting things up into quad polygons where I can. In my tutorials I typically only use the tool on completely flat areas, where I can be sure that there won’t be any smoothing errors as a result of the unpredictable way the program will triple things! In my opinion (which may not be 100% correct, but is based on my own experience), the bottom line is that as long as the mesh looks right, smooths correctly (without artefacts) and, if necessary, deforms correctly when animated, then there are multiple ways of modelling a ‘correct’ mesh.
As for the subdivision question, Modo was primarily an SDS (subdivision-surface) modeller, and you can use the ‘TAB’ key whilst modelling to switch between a subdivided/smoothed model and the raw polygons (similar to adding a turbosmooth modifier in max, or hypernurbs in C4D). I cover this a little bit in my penknife tutorial but if you have any other questions feel free to give me a shout :)
Hope that helps!
Matt
hi matt i know this is off topic but i haven’t received any reply to my mail from this id — ptk25g@gamil.com,pratikgulati@gamil.com it has happened b4 also , sent u a tutor 20 days back and no reply
Pratik